Bumming Around in Berlin

What is most stunning about the city of Berlin is the architecture. While the destruction of Berlin during WW2 was devastating as evidenced by Kasier Wilhelm Church, Berlin has had the unique opportunity of blending new and old. It gives the city variety and keep it interesting. No where is the blend of new and old more evident than at the Reichstag.

The newly constructed glass dome atop the 19th century building was a highlight of my visit. Not only is entry to the glass dome free, but the audio guide provided gave you an in depth understanding of major points on the Berlin skyline. What made it cooler was the audio guide was automatic, when you reached certain points it would start the appropriate commentary.

One thing of which to be careful is the operating of the transit system. Twice I was out in the downtown area with others from the hostel at night and twice we got stranded and had to take a taxi. The second time we left earlier and thought we’d make it, but some lines and services close earlier than others. What was most weird was some lines would close at midnight but then reopen at 3AM – much too early for commuters, but perfect for Berlin’s great all night bars.

On my second day I made the trek out to the Sachsenhausen concentration camp.You could definitely spend most of the day there (I was there for about 5 hours and could have spent more time) The memorial was packed with information there are many displays as well as you can rent an informative audio guide for 3 Euros (entrance is free). The plethora of mass graves on the sites really gives an eerie sense of  the history of the Third Reich and the beginning of the GDR.

Even if you don’t go to Sachsenhausen, you can’t help but feel history in Berlin. Very tasteful monuments litter the downtown area. Memorials for WW2, the holocaust, book burning all within walking distance from each other. But one of the most striking was the memorial to the victims of war located in an old Prussian guardhouse. It was shocking to enter this cavernous room that contained only one statue of a mother holding her dead son.

Everyone that I talked to said the one museum you have to go to is the Pergamonmuseum. I was not initial super excited about it when I heard it was mostly classical Roman and Greek sculptures,but as it turned out it was impressive! For me the sheer size of the displays is astounding. it feels like you are walking in an ancient Greek city that was stolen and transplanted to Berlin. I wish I had paid more attention in Greek mythology because then I could have appreciated the sculptures even more. 

Another museum I visited that deserves credit is the DDR museum – all about life in communist East Germany.It was small but had cool hands on features and lots of information in English.

On my last day I visited the East Side Gallery where the longest continuous piece of the Berlin Wall is located. Right now there are artists repainting  their paintings (after years of weather and tourist) damage in time for the 20th anniversary of the fall of the wall in November. I also  briefly visited the Kasier Wilhelm Church that was largely destroyed by allied bombing in 1943.

Lastly one of the ‘must do’ things is one of the fabulous free walking tours. I did it on my first day and the four hour tour gives you a sense of direction and a good opportunity to ask questions from a knowledgeable guide.

Packing Permutations

How much can you pack in 23kg? Believe it or not quite a lot. This year the company I am working for in Spain decided to book everyone on direct flights to Madrid on Air Transat. My previous experience with Air Transat has been positive, but because they are a budget airline their baggage allowance is also budget.

Most transatlantic flights allow 2 bags weighing 23kg PER BAG. Air Transat allows 23Kg TOTAL with any amount of bags. This complicated my packing plans for the next 14 months. I needed some summer camp clothes for Spain, dress clothes for work and fall clothes for Russia.

Despite these initial setbacks, I finally found a packing list that worked. It probably includes a lot of stuff that I really don’t need and there is things I probably forgot. But as always the contents of my bag is never the same when I depart compared to when I come back. Things get left behind and I buy new things.

I kind of broke my own personal rule about travelling with only one big bag and one day backpack (the contents of the packing list are divided among the backpack, daypack, suitcase and purse pictured above). I justified this to myself by remembering that I was going to be away for more than a year. I probably could have got it all one bag instead of taking two half empty bags.

So now my entire life for the next year is contained in four bags with 23kg of packed baggage and 12kg of carry-on stuff.

Approaching Adventures

View Larger Map

After finally completing my travelogue of NYC, this is just a quick update on my upcoming travel plans. I will be leaving the continent of North America June 22nd to call Europe home for the next year and a bit. My first stop will be Berlin for a few days before starting work in Spain. Like last summer I will be working first in Pueyo de Jaca and then in Alba de Tormes. In August I will also be working in Alba. Then beginning in September I journey to the land of Dostoevsky, the Kremlin and the Trans-Siberian Railroad – Russia. I will be teaching English in the small town of Reutov (just outside of the Moscow Ring Road). More details  to come!

The Best of Toronto

Before I leave Toronto for the foreseeable future I thought I comment on some of the fantastic finds I’ve had since moving here four years ago.

View Larger Map

Best place to get food at 3AM – While you may assume the only food venues open at this time would be McDonalds and Tim Hortons, you are gravely mistaken. Enter 7 West – a cute cafe open 24 hrs a day 7 days a week. Serving salads, pasta and delicious desserts.

Best place to study – With several libraries on campus a UofT student can be picky about where to study. My personal favourite is Trinity College’s Graham Library. Just the smell of the wood desks and fireplaces makes you feel at home.However Victoria College’s Pratt library is a close second. At Pratt you feel like you are in Ikea.

Best free wifi – Most coffee shops these days have wireless, but most require you to pay. So if you are looking for free access in downtown Toronto look no further than the Toronto Reference Library on Yonge St just north of Bloor.

Best sushi – One thing I miss the most when travelling abroad is the abundance of sushi places here in Toronto. Everyone seems to have their personal favourite. My vote goes to Sushi Club. So good I had them on speed dial!

Best crepes –As a student breakfast often rolls into lunch and as such you come to love brunch food. Crepes-a-go-go makes the best crepes hands down both sweet and savory. They also quite an authentic atmosphere with all of the staff speaking French.

Best place for groceries –After moving south of College Street I discovered the wonders of shopping at Kensington Market for food. Before I had simply frequented the area for clothes and jewelry, but with two bakeries, two cheese stores, a butcher you can’t go wrong for price and quality.

Best place for a selection of tea – While in Kensington Market you can stop in for some loose tea (or a cup of coffee) at Moon Bean.

Best place to hold a party – A great place for a party of any size is Andy Pool Hall. They have a unique decor, DJs and dancing after 11 and of course pool tables. No matter you group’s tastes there is something for everyone here.

Best bet on a Monday night – Looking for something to do on a Monday night? Head over to the Reservoir Lounge and catch a great set (or three) of jazz by Sophia Perlman and the Vipers. I recommend the Reservoir Red if you are craving a martini while you are there!

Best junk food deals – Craving chocolate, candy and other junk food? Don’t pay full price, wait for the day after Easter, Valentine’s day at get it at Shopper’s Drug Mart for half price!

Best ethnic food – One of the most unique experiences I’ve had in Toronto was eating at Ethiopian House. It’s a reasonably priced dining experience if you get bored of sushi and dim sum.

Best way to spend an afternoon – Got 5 hours to kill in Toronto? The AGO recently completed their renovations and is a fantastic art gallery to visit. See my previous post for details.

Best Sunday brunch – My first year in Toronto I had the good fortune of booking my birthday at the Bloor Street Diner for brunch. It is hands down my favourite spot for brunch – but it is only open on Sundays. The chocolate fountain is alone makes it worth the trip!

Best Canadian fine dining – Looking to impress someone? Take them to Canoe not only is the view from the 54th floor of the TD tower impressive but so is the seasonal selection of Canadian food.

Best cheap beer and food – Einstein Pub is the closest pub to my place, but it is also the best deal in the area for cheap house beer and food. If you order the wings get them with the hammered sauce.

Best place for window shopping – The area of Bay and Bloor has undergone lots of renos including the arrival of some of the most expensive stores in Toronto. So if you don’t want to spend any money, but just browse this area is fantastic.

Best martinis – College St between Bathurst and Ossington is known for its quaint cafes and martini bars. Personally I find Souz Dal the most reasonably priced martinis and it also has an extensive list from which to choose.

Best cakes – Although they don’t make their cakes in house, Future Bakery is great spot for dessert and/or coffee. In the summer the patio is a bonus!

Best place for home supplies – Other than Canadian Tire I find myself getting the best deals for home supplies at the local Dollarama. For things where quality is not a big concern you can save a lot of money by shopping here.

Best place to get fit – There is the perennial debate between students about which is a better place to work out – the Athletic Centre (AC) or Hart House. When I lived across the street from Hart House I definitely went there, but after gradually discovering the AC I found it more convenient with more equipment and less people. It is not has ‘hard core’ and intimidating as people think!

Best pad thai – After fencing our standard place to go was the Red Room. Not only are their prices quite cheap but the Pad Thai is unmatched in my humble opinion. The Green Room and Nirvana are owned by the same people and are also worth your time.

Best all nighter – Despite conflicting opinions, one of the best events of the fall is Nuit Blanche. An all night art festival that intrigues and entertains!